Big thanks to www.FrSky-RC.com
for providing the Receiver unit for this project :)
The first time I converted this 10 Euro model I decided to make the entire wing move (Pitcheron) and it's roll rate was crazy fun. I learnt the down side is with the entire wing moving and never really still it's lifting capacity sucks lol. Each time I decided to do some crazy rolls or loops I would lose lots of height. On less windy days it was a battle just to stay airborne.
So I decided I wanted to make this one with proper ailerons although big ones!
The servos being housed under the wing worked quite well for pitcherons so I decide to do the same except at the front over the stock COG line. One on each side to control rudder and elevator. They cut so only the arm comes out the side and nothing more.
The aileron servo up top protrudes into the wing cavity a little, use this to run the other servo wires through before placing the aileron servo.
You can see both servos fitted although not centred yet it doesn't matter as the servo heads are clearly accessible at any time in the future.
With the other 2 servo lines ran into the front of the fuselage I can now fit the ailerons servo again with just the arm sticking out the top.
The ailerons I cut out just below the text lettering straight in-line with it. But if your working on a clone or similar they start 4CM out from fuselage and are 4CM deep at cord (fuselage side) out to tip. Once cut you can push the wing into place and just use foam safe (important!) CA glue around the edge of the wing and fuselage. This way in the future if you have to pull the wing out just run along the edge you glued with a sharp hobby knife.
To have a nice flush canopy you need to cut out an area for your receiver to sit in, the more room you can make yourself inside the better, also the RX isn't going anywhere being in a snug hole.
As it's a glider I need a UBEC to step down the 7.4V or 11.1v to 5v for the RX unit. I cut out a hole in the nose center area and embedded it in there so it was completely out of the way.
Now I have a big area to move the lipo battery forward and back to adjust COG later. While this is a 2S , similar 3S packs also fit :)
I wanted the entire tail to move for maximum elevator throw. First I cut the tail sides off from the higher center piece.
Now I glued just that center piece in place with a plastic push tube piece on the top as a collar.
This 3MM carbon fibre rob will pivot the whole tail area, only 1 side is CA in place so you can push it though the center piece then CA the other side. When both pieces are in place it should move press free on it's own.
Here you can see the ailerons properly, after this photo I used tape hinge to fix them and not what you see in the photo.
For the elevator control line to not interfere with the elevator itself I had to add a step-up in the line, now the elevator has lots of throw and never hits the line.
The elevator side attached by control horn is lots stronger than the other side, to solve any possible twisting in winds I added a piece of carbon fibre rod to both pieces crossing each other. Then I used regular thread and wrapped around the join area, followed by CA glue. When dried cut the excess areas and it'll be quite solid. Both sides of the elevator are now as strong as each other, it also stops any flexing backwards as an added bonus.
Lastly the added > added? Bonus is if your like me and storing models involves putting nails in the wall to hang them then this piece on the back is perfect for also hanging it up! ;p
Part 2 coming soon with maiden flight video!